Deep in the Maestrazgo of Teruel, where the Guadalope river carves its way between limestone walls, the rock shelters around Castellote and Molinos hold painted figures left by prehistoric communities. The Friso Abierto del Pudial is one of them, an open frieze on a sheltered rock face, part of the extraordinary chain of Levantine art sites listed by UNESCO. The figures are faint, and visiting typically means a walk on rough ground, but the setting alone is worth the effort.
This part of Aragón is wild and sparsely peopled. Castellote, with a few hundred residents, perches beneath a crag topped by the ruins of a Templar castle, and the Guadalope here forms a reservoir hemmed in by cliffs. Molinos is known for its Grutas de Cristal, caves with delicate formations and a small museum about cave bears, and the wider area is rich in dinosaur fossils; Teruel province is one of the leading places in Europe for them. Griffon vultures nest on the cliffs, and the scent of thyme and rosemary hangs over the hillsides on warm days.
The roads are the reason many riders come back to the Maestrazgo. They wind along gorges, climb to high plateaus at over a thousand metres and drop into green river valleys, with little traffic and often an excellent surface. Some routes have narrow sections, short tunnels carved into rock and unguarded drops, and wandering sheep or goats can appear round any corner. In winter, snow and ice are possible on the higher passes, and in summer afternoon storms can roll in quickly over the mountains.
Fuel is scarce in this corner. The nearest towns of any size are Andorra de Teruel and Alcañiz, both a fair distance away, so do not pass up a pump when you see one and carry enough range for the gorges. Village bars and family restaurants serve hearty food: roast lamb, migas made from fried bread crumbs with sausage and grapes, and the famous Teruel ham, which has its own designation of origin. Bring plenty of water for the walk to the shelters, as shade is limited.