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Freycinet

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Freycinet is the peninsula on Tasmania's east coast where a granite spine called the Hazards rises pink and orange out of the sea, the kind of rock that looks stained by the last sunset, and the colour comes from the feldspar in the stone. The famous curve of Wineglass Bay lies on the far side, a white arc of sand reached by a steep walking track of about an hour from the car park, and a good viewpoint is on the way up; it is a fair climb in motorcycle boots, so plan to change shoes.

The drive in is the Great Eastern Drive, about 170 kilometres along the coast from Orford in the south to St Helens in the north. From Hobart you take the Tasman Highway through the Sorell and Orford area, then run north with the sea on one side and low hills on the other, past Triabunna, where the ferry leaves for Maria Island, and through the small seaside town of Swansea, where a wide bay faces the Hazards across the water. The corners are gentle and the road is generally good, with a couple of climbs through forest, and the traffic is light compared with the mainland.

At the peninsula itself, the national park takes an entry fee, and Coles Bay is the little settlement at the gate, with a shop and a few places to eat, including local oysters from the nearby farms, which are among the best you will find.

Wildlife is the hazard and the delight. Wallabies and pademelons graze by the roadside at dusk and dawn, and wombats and the occasional Tasmanian devil are killed on the roads at night, so avoid riding after dark if you can. The weather is changeable, with cold southerlies from the Southern Ocean, but a clear morning here is as good as it gets.

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