French Mountain is the first great climb on the Cabot Trail as you come up from Chéticamp on the west coast of Cape Breton Island, and it rises to about 455 metres on the plateau of the Cape Breton Highlands. The road climbs steeply in a series of long, powerful bends, with the Gulf of St Lawrence dropping away behind you, and then flattens onto an open, windswept barren of stunted spruce, bogs and low scrub. On a clear day, the view back toward the sea is superb, and on a foggy one you can barely see the verge.
The plateau is a harsh, beautiful place. It is open to the weather, with strong winds, sudden fog and cold rain even in summer, and the vegetation is a tough tundra-like mix of heath, blueberries and tamarack. Moose roam here, and you may see one standing at the edge of the road, a huge, ungainly animal that should be given plenty of room. Black bears also live in the park, and eagles soar overhead.
The road lies within Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and you need a valid park pass if you plan to stop. Fuel is not available on the plateau, so fill the tank at Chéticamp, and carry spare if your bike has a short range. The next services lie at Pleasant Bay, on the far side of the plateau, which is a long way ahead. The road surface is generally good, but frost heaves and patches can be rough, and the descents are steep and tight, so be careful with the brakes.
Coming back through French Mountain on the return leg, you will see the landscape from a new angle, with the light changing and the sea glinting far below. It is a stretch that rewards slow riding, a few stops to take in the view and attention to the weather. Pack waterproofs and a warm layer, and keep an eye on the sky.