The glacier is the reason for the village. Franz Josef, named in 1865 by the German geologist Julius von Haast after the Austrian emperor, flows from the high snowfields of the Southern Alps down a steep valley to within a few hundred metres of the rainforest, a rare sight at this latitude. The Māori name, Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere, means the tears of the avalanche girl, and recalls a legend of a woman whose grief at the loss of her lover froze into the ice. The glacier has been retreating for years, and the walk to the terminal face grows longer.
The village itself is small, a cluster of motels, cafés and helicopter pads, set among tall rimu and kahikatea trees. Rain is the norm, often more than five metres a year, and the forest is lush, with ferns, moss and mist. When the clouds lift, the white mass of the glacier is visible above the trees, with peaks beyond. Walks to the glacier viewpoint are short, and guided heli-hikes take visitors onto the ice. Lake Mapourika, a few kilometres north, is a calm, deep lake with wonderful reflections on still mornings.
The ride on State Highway 6 here is fine, with long, sweeping views of mountains and sea, and short, tight bends through the forest. The surface is good, though wet in places, and many bridges are single-lane, so slow down and give way where signs require. Distances are long, and the weather changes quickly, so carry warm, waterproof layers. Early morning often has clearer skies, and the light on the peaks is lovely.
Fuel is the main practical concern. Pumps in the glacier villages are few, and may not be open at all hours, so top up in Hokitika or Haast and carry a margin. The sandflies are fierce, particularly around dawn and dusk, so bring repellent. Restaurants and cafés in the village are friendly, and book ahead in summer. The hot pools in the village are a pleasure after a day on the road.