Fotu La is the highest point on the road between Srinagar and Leh, at 4,108 metres, and it is higher than the better-known Namika La further west. It is a broad, windswept saddle with prayer flags snapping in the wind, a few signs from the Border Roads Organisation and a feeling of enormous space. The altitude is real, so do not be surprised if a short walk makes you breathless; take your time and drink plenty of water.
The pass lies in Ladakh, in the stretch of high desert between Mulbekh and Lamayuru, with bare, wrinkled mountains in shades of brown, ochre and grey. The ride is in good condition for much of the way, with smooth, wide tarmac and long, easy hairpins on the ascent and descent, although there are stretches of broken surface where meltwater or rockfall has taken its toll. Frequent army convoys, trucks and tourist vehicles share the road, so be patient, and watch for sudden gusts of wind and a drop in temperature even on sunny days.
Below the pass on the eastern side lies Lamayuru, one of the oldest and most spectacular monasteries in Ladakh, perched on a cliff above a landscape of eroded, pale clay formations that people call moonland. It is a worthwhile stop if you have time. Further west, Mulbekh has a large carved statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha, standing beside the road, and the Buddhist culture of Ladakh grows stronger as you approach Leh.
Fill up at Kargil, or in Leh, and consider carrying a spare can, because stations on this route can run dry and distances between them are considerable. Food stops are simple, with dhaba tea stalls and momos in small villages, but they are friendly and welcome.
The road is generally open between late spring and autumn, closing when heavy snow arrives, and the Zoji La, further west, is often the real bottleneck. Check conditions before you go, and aim to cross the pass in the morning, before the afternoon wind picks up.