Along the coast west of Accra, a string of white fortresses stands on headlands above the surf. They were built by European traders from the fifteenth century onward, first by the Portuguese, who founded Elmina in 1482 to buy gold, then by the Dutch, the British, the Danes and others, who competed for the trade in gold and, later, enslaved people. The forts and castles of the Gold Coast are now a UNESCO World Heritage site, a sobering reminder of how this coast was shaped.
The checkpoint here lies on the coast near Winneba, a town of around 44,000 people with a lively fishing harbour and a university. The ride heads west from Accra along the main coastal road, passing through Kasoa, where traffic often builds, and then along the sea, with views of palm groves, fishing villages and long beaches. Brightly painted boats are drawn up on the sand, nets are spread out to dry, and the air smells of salt and smoke from the fish ovens.
The riding is hot work, and the road surface varies, with good tarmac in places and potholes in others. Heavy lorries and shared taxis share the road, and speed bumps appear at villages, sometimes without warning, so stay alert. Fuel is available in Winneba and Kasoa, and it is wise to top up before you go further west, as stations can be sparse on long stretches. Carry water, and try to start early.
Further west, at Cape Coast and Elmina, the two largest castles dominate the shore, and guided tours lead through dark dungeons and out onto sunlit ramparts, where cannon still point at the sea. It is a moving and uncomfortable visit, and one that stays with you. Let the sea wind cool you after, and take time to sit with a cold drink, and think about what the walls have seen.