Suomenlinna is a fortress on a cluster of islands in front of Helsinki, reached in about fifteen minutes by public ferry from the Market Square. The Swedes began building it in 1748, when Finland was part of their kingdom and the Russian threat was growing, and they called it Sveaborg, the Fortress of the Swedes. The architect Augustin Ehrensvard designed the plan, and he is buried on the island. Granite ramparts, bastions, tunnels and storehouses are laid out among rocky islets, and a wide-angled view of the fortress from the sea is impressive.
The fortress was meant to be impregnable, but in 1808, during the war between Sweden and Russia, it surrendered after a short siege, and Finland passed to Russia. The Russians expanded the base, and it remained a garrison until Finland became independent in 1917, when it was renamed Suomenlinna, the Fortress of Finland. Later it was used as a military base, a prison and a training ground, and in 1991 it was inscribed by UNESCO. Today, about eight hundred people live on the islands, in old barracks and workers' houses, and there are museums, cafes, studios and a submarine, Vesikko, which you can climb into.
The atmosphere is relaxed. Paths run along the walls, with views over the Baltic, and families picnic on the grass slopes. In summer, the days are long, with light until near midnight, and in winter, the islands are quiet and frozen. Seagulls, wind and the smell of salt are constant.
For riders, the motorcycle stays on the mainland, since the ferry carries foot passengers and bicycles rather than motor vehicles. You can park near the Market Square and walk to the ferry pier. Helsinki has fuel at stations around the city, and the harbour area has cafes and restaurants. The route here connects to the ferries from Tallinn, so riders often arrive after crossing the Gulf of Finland. Weather is changeable, with wind off the sea, and a warm layer is useful even in summer. Allow at least half a day for the island, and take food if you want to picnic.