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Fortlet Lochmühle

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The Lochmühle is a small fortlet on the Limes in the Taunus, near Wehrheim and the famous Saalburg, and it guarded a spot where the frontier crossed the valley of the Erlenbach stream. Fortlets like this were small outposts, housing a handful of soldiers who watched the border and controlled traffic, and they formed a link between the watchtowers and the larger forts. Its remains are modest, but the location, in a quiet valley surrounded by forest, has a peaceful charm. The name comes from a nearby mill, now a popular leisure park for families with play areas and farm animals.

The real star of this stretch of the Limes is the Saalburg, a few kilometres away, a Roman fort reconstructed in the early twentieth century at the wish of Kaiser Wilhelm II. It is the only Roman fort in Germany rebuilt on its original foundations, with walls, gates, barracks and a headquarters building, and it houses a museum with an impressive collection of finds. Whatever you think of the reconstruction, it gives a vivid idea of what a frontier fort looked like.

The Taunus is close to Frankfurt, and its roads are popular with motorcyclists, especially on weekends. The roads around Wehrheim, Usingen and the Hochtaunus offer winding routes through forests and valleys, with climbs toward the Großer Feldberg and views over the Rhine-Main plain. Some of the most popular roads have speed limits and frequent checks because of accidents and noise complaints, and on sunny weekends they can be crowded. Weekdays are better. The forest keeps the roads shaded and cool in summer, but also damp after rain.

Wehrheim, about two and a half kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and Bad Homburg, a few kilometres further, is an elegant spa town with a castle, a beautiful park and a casino. Friedrichsdorf, nearby, was founded by Huguenot refugees and is known for its rusks. Local food includes Grüne Soße, a herb sauce made from seven herbs, served with eggs and potatoes, and apple wine, the regional drink, best enjoyed in a garden tavern, though not before riding.

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