Götz von Berlichingen, the knight with the iron hand, was born in Jagsthausen around 1480, and he is remembered for a rude phrase he supposedly shouted at an enemy, made famous by Goethe in his play about the knight. Jagsthausen's castle, where Götz grew up, hosts an open-air theatre festival every summer, and the iron hand, a prosthesis he wore after losing his right hand in battle, is displayed there. A few kilometres away, in the fields near Widdern, the fortlet of Lehnenwiesen was a small Roman post on the Upper Germanic Limes, part of the chain of forts and watchtowers that ran through this landscape.
The area lies in the valley of the Jagst, a river that meanders through a deep, green valley between the plateaus of Hohenlohe and the Bauland. The valley is lined with villages, castles and mills, and its slopes are covered with woods, meadows and, in places, vineyards. Jagsthausen also had a Roman fort, and its remains have been excavated, with a bath house. Widdern is a small town with a medieval centre, and Möckmühl, downstream, has a castle above the river.
The riding in the Jagst valley is a pleasure. The valley road follows the river with gentle curves, past villages and castles, and the roads climbing out onto the plateaus offer more curves and views. Surfaces are mostly sound, and traffic is light. Watch for cyclists, as the Jagst valley cycle route is popular, and for tractors. Some roads have weekend restrictions for motorcycles. Weather is mild, with fog in the valley in autumn and occasional snow in winter.
The villages around the fortlet are small; for fuel, head to Adelsheim, Möckmühl or Jagsthausen. The cooking here is Swabian and Franconian, with roast meats, dumplings and local wine. Jagsthausen's castle has a hotel and restaurant. The fortlet itself is a modest site in a field, with information boards, but the view over the valley is pleasant. Combine it with a visit to Jagsthausen to see Götz's iron hand; the knight lived a long and turbulent life, and his story is a fine counterpoint to the quiet Roman post in the fields.