On the heights above the right bank of the Rhine, opposite Koblenz, the suburb of Niederberg sits on top of a Roman fort. It is one of the forts of the Upper Germanic Limes, which ran through the hills here a few kilometres back from the river, and the label refers to the fort site and the civilian settlement that grew up around it, part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire World Heritage site. Not much is visible today, as the area is built over, but the location explains a great deal.
From up here, you understand why everyone wanted to control this spot. Just below lies the confluence of the Rhine and the Moselle, at the Deutsches Eck, the German Corner, with its huge equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I. Above the Rhine, next to Niederberg, stands the fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, one of the largest in Europe, rebuilt by the Prussians in the nineteenth century after the French blew up its predecessor. A cable car crosses the Rhine from the old town of Koblenz to the fortress, offering fine views of the river and the city.
The riding around Koblenz is excellent. The Rhine valley south of here, through the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, is a World Heritage site of castles, vineyards and steep slopes, and the roads along both banks are scenic, if often busy. The Moselle valley to the south-west is even more winding, with tight loops, vineyards and wine villages. East, the Westerwald offers quiet country roads through forests and hills. Surfaces are generally good, but expect heavy traffic around Koblenz and on summer weekends along the rivers.
The Rhine here is broad and powerful, and the slopes above it are covered with forests and vineyards. In spring and autumn the light on the river can be beautiful, and the views from Ehrenbreitstein at sunset are spectacular. The fortress also hosts events and exhibitions, and its grounds are a pleasant place to wander.
Vallendar, about three kilometres away, has fuel and basic services. Koblenz itself, just below, is a city with everything you need, including a charming old town full of restaurants and wine bars. Order a glass of Riesling from the Moselle or the Rhine and sit outside in one of the squares near the old churches.