Miltenberg is one of those German towns that seem almost too pretty to be real, with half-timbered houses leaning over the cobbled streets, a market square sloping down toward the river, a castle on the hill above and the Main flowing slowly past. The Romans were here first. Two forts guarded this point on the frontier, one near the old town and another to the east, where the Limes left the river and ran overland through the Odenwald, and the sites, with their civilian settlements, are part of the UNESCO Frontiers of the Roman Empire. A museum in the town displays finds from the forts.
The Mildenburg, the castle above the town, now houses a museum of modern art and icons, and the views over the Main valley and the red sandstone roofs of Miltenberg are superb. The market square, known locally as the Schnatterloch, is one of the most photographed in Germany, surrounded by timber-framed houses and a fountain. Across the river, Kleinheubach has a baroque palace in a large park, and Großheubach climbs up to the Engelberg, a Franciscan monastery reached by a long flight of steps.
The riding around Miltenberg is varied and excellent. The Main valley roads follow the river through vineyards and small towns, with gentle curves and moderate traffic. South and west, the roads climb into the Odenwald, a forested upland with twisting roads, small villages and the baroque abbey of Amorbach, famous for its organ, one of the largest baroque organs in the world. East, the Spessart offers more forest roads. Weekends bring many motorcyclists, and police checks are common.
Großheubach, about two kilometres away, and Miltenberg have fuel, shops and restaurants. Local food includes Franconian dishes such as roast pork with dumplings, Schäufele, and the red wines of the Churfranken region, especially Spätburgunder from the slopes along the Main. Cafés and wine taverns line the old town streets.
Come in spring, when the orchards bloom, or in autumn, when the vineyards turn and the wine festivals begin. Summer weekends can be crowded. Walk up to the castle in the late afternoon for the view down over the red roofs to the river, then come back to the square for a glass of Franconian red once the bike is parked for the night.