Mainhardt sits on a plateau in the Swabian-Franconian Forest, a wooded upland east of Heilbronn, and in the second century, a Roman army unit was stationed here. The fort was built around the middle of the second century, as part of the forward movement of the frontier, to guard the Limes that ran just to the east. It held a unit of around five hundred soldiers, and a civil settlement grew up beside it, with houses, workshops, baths and inns, where families, craftsmen and traders lived.
Much of the fort is buried under fields and modern houses, but the outline can be traced, and a small museum in the village has finds from the dig, including pottery, tools and inscriptions. A stretch of the Limes with a reconstructed tower is a short walk away, and the information centre explains how the frontier worked. The site is part of the Upper Germanic-Raetian Limes, which UNESCO listed in 2005.
The landscape is quiet and hilly, with fir and beech forests, small streams, meadows and orchards, in the region called Hohenlohe, famous for its pork, its dairy and its castles. In autumn, the leaves turn and mist lingers in the valleys. The area is rural and unhurried, and locals are friendly and keen to talk about their home.
The riding is a delight, with winding country roads through forest and over ridges, gentle bends and a surface that is generally good. Traffic is light, especially on weekdays, though tractors and cyclists are common. Take care on shaded sections after rain, where damp patches and leaves can be slippery. Mainhardt is a village of about five and a half thousand, with fuel, a bakery, a few inns and a supermarket, and the larger towns of Schwabisch Hall and Murrhardt are within reach. Local food is hearty, with dumplings, roast pork and good beer. Spring brings blossom and green fields, and autumn brings colour. Take time to walk the stretch of Limes, and bring a layer in case the weather changes.