Fort Jesus stands at the edge of Mombasa island looking out over the entrance to the old harbour, its thick coral-stone walls glowing ochre in the late afternoon. The Portuguese built it at the end of the sixteenth century, to a design by the Italian military architect Giovanni Battista Cairati, to secure their hold on the Swahili coast and the Indian Ocean trade. It changed hands repeatedly over the next two centuries, most famously after a siege by Omani Arab forces that lasted almost three years at the end of the 1690s, and later served as a prison. Since 2011 it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the museum inside tells the story of the coast and its many rulers.
The Old Town next door is the soul of the place. Narrow streets wind between houses with carved wooden doors and balconies, mosques, spice shops and small cafés where men sip spiced coffee from tiny cups. The architecture mixes Swahili, Arab, Indian and Portuguese influences, a testament to Mombasa's long history as a port city connecting Africa to Arabia and India.
As a riding destination, Mombasa is not for the faint-hearted. The city is hot and humid, the traffic chaotic, with matatus, tuk-tuks, boda-boda motorbikes and trucks heading to and from the port. The island is linked to the mainland by bridges and the Likoni ferry, which can involve long queues. Once you leave the city, the coastal roads north toward Kilifi and Malindi or south toward Diani open up a bit, with palm trees, baobabs and glimpses of the ocean. Ride early in the morning, before the heat and traffic peak, and keep your wits about you.
Mombasa is Kenya's second-largest city, with all services, including fuel stations everywhere. The food is wonderful: biryani and pilau rich with spices, grilled fish with coconut sauce, mahamri doughnuts with chai for breakfast, and fresh mango or pineapple from the street vendors. Drink plenty of water, wear light clothing and sunscreen, and keep an eye on your bike and belongings in busy areas.