Forsand is a small settlement at the mouth of the Lysefjord, and the ferry here is the way into one of Norway's most dramatic landscapes. The fjord is about forty kilometres long and cuts into the mountains in a narrow, straight channel, with walls that rise a kilometre in places. These walls were carved by glaciers in the last ice age, and the grey rock, ancient gneiss, is smooth and pale in the light. Nearby, the cliff of Preikestolen, the Pulpit Rock, juts out about six hundred metres above the water, and the hike to it is among the most popular in the country.
The ferry crossing is part of the ride, and it gives you a chance to sit still and look. Norwegian ferries are efficient and frequent, with timetables posted at the quay and payment by card or an automatic toll tag, and motorcycles usually board first. The water is deep and dark, and in calm weather the mountains reflect in it so cleanly that you cannot tell where the cliff ends and the image begins. In wind, the surface turns steel grey and the air smells of salt and diesel.
For the road beyond, the surface is good, the traffic is light and the scenery changes quickly from sea level to high mountain. Roads here are narrow, with tunnels and sharp bends, and speed limits are strictly enforced with cameras and police. Weather matters, because fog and rain can arrive quickly, and temperatures drop sharply as you climb. In late autumn and winter, some of the mountain roads close because of snow, so check conditions in advance.
Fuel is a practical question. A fuel stop is listed here, but services in small places can be limited, with unmanned pumps that take cards only. Jørpeland, about fourteen kilometres away, is a town of more than five thousand people, and Hommersåk, Tau and the Stavanger area have more. Fill up if you have the chance, because the roads beyond the fjord are long and stations are far apart.
Food in these small places is simple, often a kiosk with waffles, hot dogs and coffee, or a small cafeteria in the ferry terminal. Norwegian waffles with brown cheese or jam are a decent lunch. If you can, bring a flask and a sandwich, and enjoy a quiet moment on deck.