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Formentor Beach

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The beach at Formentor is a pocket of sand and pines in a bay on the north coast, facing the open sea on one side and the long finger of the peninsula on the other. It is not wild; the little hotel above it, the Hotel Formentor, was built in the late 1920s and became a rendezvous for writers, artists and well-heeled visitors. It later gave its name to a literary prize in the 1960s. But the setting is lovely, and the water is shallow, clear and cool.

Coming here from Es Colomer the road drops through pine forest, passing a tunnel cut through the rock, and the bends become gentler, more rhythmic, with trees shading the tarmac and the smell of resin heavy on warm days. It is an easier ride than the cliff section, though the narrow lanes and tourist traffic still demand attention. In summer the road can be restricted for private vehicles at busy times, so it is worth checking before you set off, particularly on weekends. The best time to ride is spring or autumn, when the sea is still warm enough to tempt you and the crowds have gone.

Behind the beach, the Tramuntana peaks lean into the sky, with the pine trees running right down to the sand. Sea breezes keep the temperature bearable, and in the evening the light on the water can be gorgeous. Swimming in motorcycle gear is not advisable, but a stop in riding trousers with boots off and feet in the water does wonders for the mood. The beach has sunbeds, a small bar and basic facilities in season, but prices reflect the location.

Practicalities are simple. The nearest fuel is at Port de Pollença, about six kilometres back along the road, where you will also find supermarkets, restaurants and pharmacies. Alcúdia, the larger town on the next bay, has more of everything. Beyond the beach, the road continues to the Cap de Formentor lighthouse, about thirteen kilometres further on, and that stretch is slower, narrower and utterly worth doing if you have the time, though you should carry water and expect the wind to rise.

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