Whangamomona is a village with a population that can be counted on one's fingers and a political history that is considerably larger. In 1988, when regional boundaries were redrawn and the village found itself moved from Taranaki to Manawatu-Wanganui against its wishes, locals shrugged, declared independence and proclaimed the Republic of Whangamomona the following year. Presidents have been elected since then, and they have included a goat and a poodle, with the position taken more seriously by its supporters than its critics might suppose.
The centre of the republic is the Whangamomona Hotel, a wooden pub built in the early twentieth century, which still serves food and drink to travellers and will stamp your passport, for a small fee, with an official republic stamp. The building and the few houses around it are the remains of a once-busy timber and farming settlement, and old photographs inside show the village in its heyday, when the railway was under construction and the hills were being cleared.
The riding to get here is the highlight of the Forgotten World Highway. From Taumarunui the road climbs and falls through hill country, with a series of tight bends, narrow bridges and blind crests, and the surface varies from good tar to patched and broken. Livestock is common on the road, and trucks hauling logs and stock use it. Fog and rain can reduce visibility, and a rider needs to be alert. The reward is a sense of remoteness that is increasingly rare in the North Island.
Food and drink are available at the hotel, which makes this the natural lunch stop, but fuel is not, so make sure your tank was full from Taumarunui and that you have enough to reach Stratford. Accommodation is limited to a few cabins and the hotel, and booking ahead is wise if you want to stay. Mobile coverage is poor or nonexistent. The republic holds a celebration in odd-numbered years, with sheep races, gumboot throwing and a presidential election.
The country is wild and green, with steep, forested hills, deep gorges and farmland cut into the slopes. In the morning, mist lies in the valleys, and the smell of damp earth and ferns is strong. Take your time, and enjoy the quiet.