High in the mountains of northern Lebanon, at close to two thousand metres above the Qadisha valley, a small grove of ancient cedars survives as a reminder of the vast forests that once covered these slopes. The Phoenicians built their ships from cedar, the Egyptians used its resin, and the Bible says that Solomon's temple was built with it. Over thousands of years, the forests were cut down almost entirely, and the Cedars of God, as this grove is called, is one of the last remnants, with some trees thought to be many centuries old. It is part of the UNESCO listing of the Ouadi Qadisha, the Holy Valley, and the Forest of the Cedars of God.
The Qadisha valley below is a deep gorge carved into the limestone, home since the early Middle Ages to monasteries, hermitages and caves used by Maronite Christians seeking refuge and solitude. The town of Bsharri, perched on the edge of the gorge, is the birthplace of the poet Khalil Gibran, author of The Prophet, and his museum, in an old monastery, holds his paintings and his tomb. In winter, The Cedars becomes a ski resort, one of the oldest in the Middle East.
The road to the cedars is a spectacular ride: from Tripoli on the coast, it climbs through olive groves and villages, then up a series of hairpins along the edge of the Qadisha valley, with dizzying drops and incredible views. The surface is variable, with potholes, gravel and the occasional rockfall, and local drivers can be unpredictable. In winter, snow often closes the upper road. Spring, when the snow is melting and the valleys are green, and autumn are the best times.
Before any trip, check current travel advice, as the security situation in Lebanon can change quickly. Bsharri, four kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants. Try mezze, a spread of small dishes such as hummus, tabbouleh, kibbeh and grilled meats, with fresh bread. A cup of strong Lebanese coffee, flavoured with cardamom, will warm you up at altitude, where the air is cool even in summer.