Rakovník guards its old centre with a pair of Gothic gate towers, and the taller of them, the Prague Gate, looks as if it has been borrowed from the capital's skyline. The town is the centre of a rural district west of Prague, known for its hops and beer, and the surrounding countryside is a gentle mix of fields, orchards and wooded hills. It has a calm, slightly sleepy atmosphere that suits a lunch stop well.
The real attraction lies to the south and east, in the Křivoklátsko, one of the largest continuous forests in central Bohemia and a UNESCO biosphere reserve. The Berounka river winds through a deep valley here, and the royal castle of Křivoklát, once a hunting seat of Czech kings, stands on a rocky spur above the forest. The roads through the forest and along the river are a delight, with tight curves, changes in elevation and very little traffic.
Riding in this area requires attention, as roads can be narrow and surfaces variable. Watch for wildlife, especially deer and wild boar, and for local drivers who know the roads better than you do. In summer, the river valley is popular with canoeists and campers, and some roads may be busier. In autumn, the forests turn gold and red, making for a spectacular ride.
Rakovník has fuel, supermarkets and restaurants, so it is a good place to fill up before heading into the forest, where services are limited. Local pubs serve Czech food and beer from nearby breweries. From here, the route follows the Berounka towards Karlštejn, the great Gothic castle built by Emperor Charles IV to house the crown jewels.