Kaesŏng is a name that carries weight in Korea. For nearly five centuries it was the capital of the Goryeo kingdom, the dynasty that gave Korea its name in Western languages, and it was famous for its merchants, its ginseng and its cuisine. Today it lies in North Korea, just across the Demilitarised Zone, and for riders in the South it is a city seen only from a distance, across the water and the wire, from the northern shores of Ganghwa Island and the Gimpo peninsula.
The view is haunting. From the Ganghwa Peace Observatory, at the northern tip of the island, or from the Aegibong Peace Ecopark in Gimpo, you look across the narrow estuary where the Han and Imjin rivers meet the sea, to the hills and villages of the North, sometimes close enough to make out fields and buildings. The estuary itself is a neutral zone, closed to civilian traffic, and its mudflats and wetlands have become a haven for birds.
As a food stop, the area on the southern side of the estuary has plenty to offer. Ganghwa Island is known for its ginseng, its sweet purple turnips and its seafood from the mudflats, including shrimp and eel. Restaurants along the coast serve grilled eel and seafood stews, and the markets in Ganghwa town sell local produce. Kaesŏng's own culinary traditions, carried south by refugees after the war, survive in dishes found in Seoul and beyond.
The roads around Ganghwa and Gimpo are scenic, with views over the estuary and the mudflats, but military checkpoints and restricted areas are common near the border, so follow signs and instructions carefully. Fuel and food are available in Ganghwa town and Gimpo.