Fujiyoshida sits on the northern foot of Mount Fuji, and the mountain fills the sky above the town so completely that it can feel almost unreal. For centuries, this was the starting point for pilgrims climbing Fuji, and the great shrine of Kitaguchi Hongū Fuji Sengen Jinja, set in a forest of ancient cedars, marks the traditional beginning of the Yoshida trail. Walking through its huge wooden torii into the dark, quiet forest is a moving experience.
On the hillside opposite, the five-storey Chūreitō pagoda stands above the town, and the view from the platform above it, with the red pagoda in the foreground and Fuji behind, is one of the most photographed in Japan, especially in spring when the cherry trees bloom. Expect crowds and a lot of steps.
Fujiyoshida is also known for its noodles. Yoshida udon is famously thick, firm and chewy, served in a soy and miso broth with cabbage and a dab of spicy sauce. It was once the lunch of the town's weavers, and dozens of small restaurants serve it, many in ordinary houses. It is cheap, filling and perfect after a cold ride.
For riders, the area around Fujiyoshida is superb, with roads around the Fuji Five Lakes, through the forests and up into the surrounding mountains. The Fuji Subaru Line climbs to the fifth station, but private vehicles are restricted during the climbing season, so check before you go. Traffic can be heavy on weekends and holidays. Fuel and food are plentiful in town.