Bílina sits in the valley of the Bílina river in north-west Bohemia, between the industrial basin around Most and Teplice and the volcanic cones of the České středohoří, the Bohemian Central Uplands. Look up from almost anywhere in town and you will see the Bořeň, a massive dome of phonolite rock rising abruptly from the woods. Climbers love its crags, and walkers make the climb for the views across the basin and the uplands.
The town has been known for its mineral water for centuries. Bílinská kyselka, a naturally sparkling water from local springs, has been bottled here since the eighteenth century and is still sold across the country, along with Zaječická hořká, a famously bitter mineral water with a reputation as a remedy for digestion. The spa park and pump room are a short stroll from the centre. The chateau of the Lobkowicz family stands above the old town.
For riding, the location is excellent. To the east and north, the České středohoří offers some of the most interesting roads in Bohemia, winding between steep volcanic hills, through orchards and vineyards, and down into the Elbe valley. To the west, the Ore Mountains rise along the German border. The basin itself is less attractive, with open-cast mines and power stations, but even that has a strange, raw grandeur.
As a food stop, Bílina is modest but adequate. There are pubs and restaurants in the centre serving solid Czech food: goulash, roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut, fried cheese. Fuel is available in town. Bring an appetite, then head for the hills.