Few small towns can boast two Renaissance châteaux, but Benešov nad Ploučnicí has both, an upper and a lower castle standing side by side above the Ploučnice river. They were built in the sixteenth century by the Wartenberg and Salhausen families, and their gables, painted rooms and courtyards make a surprising sight in a town of a few thousand people. Guided tours run in season.
The town sits in the valley of the Ploučnice, a winding river that flows west towards the Elbe at Děčín. The surrounding landscape is hilly and wooded, part of the volcanic uplands of northern Bohemia, with conical hills, basalt outcrops and small villages. To the north lies Bohemian Switzerland, a national park of sandstone towers, gorges and the famous Pravčická brána, the largest natural sandstone arch in Europe.
The roads around Benešov are narrow and winding, following valleys and climbing over hills. They offer a satisfying ride, with plenty of curves and changing scenery, but the surfaces can be uneven and some villages have cobblestones. Traffic is light, apart from the main road through the valley. Watch for cyclists and hikers, especially near the national park.
Benešov nad Ploučnicí has a few shops and pubs, and fuel can be found in the area, though the nearest large town is Děčín, on the Elbe, which has a wide range of services and a big château of its own. A stop in Benešov to see the castles is well worthwhile. Next, the road continues towards the Krkonoše, the highest mountains in the Czech Republic, through a succession of valleys, hills and forests.