The winter of 1779 to 1780 was one of the harshest on record, and the Continental Army spent it in huts at Jockey Hollow, a few miles east of Mendham, short of food, clothing and pay. Soldiers froze, starved and deserted, and some mutinied, yet the army survived. The site is now part of Morristown National Historical Park, with reconstructed huts, an old farmhouse and quiet woodland trails, and it is a moving place to stop.
Mendham itself is a small, well-kept colonial village in the hills of Morris County, with white churches, old taverns and a crossroads that has been a meeting point for centuries. The surrounding countryside is horse country, with rolling pastures, stone walls, big estates and wooded hills. It is one of the most attractive corners of northern New Jersey, and the roads through it are among the most pleasant in the region.
The riding here is a joy. Roads wind over hills and through valleys, past farms, forests and streams, with constant changes of direction and gradient. The surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel, potholes after winter and horse riders on the lanes. Traffic is moderate, but local drivers can be impatient, and police patrol regularly. In autumn, the leaves turn spectacular colours, and the roads are at their best.
Mendham has a deli, a few cafés and restaurants, and fuel is available nearby, although Morristown, a short ride east, has a wider choice of services. A coffee in the village, followed by a walk at Jockey Hollow, makes a satisfying break. Northwards, the Catskills promise high peaks and longer, wilder roads.