Flexen Pass is the road to Lech and Zürs, two of the most glamorous ski villages in the Alps, and it is a piece of engineering as much as a mountain road. At 1,773 metres, it links the Klostertal valley with the high basin of the Lech, and it was built at the end of the nineteenth century to give the villages a year-round connection. The route runs along a steep, rocky slope, with galleries and tunnels cut through the cliffs to protect it from avalanches, and there are places where the road seems to cling to the face of the mountain.
The ride up from Danöfen is a series of tight bends, with steep gradients and rock walls, followed by a dramatic stretch through the galleries, some open on one side to give views into the valley. Be careful of the sudden change from light to dark, and of the narrow lanes in the tunnels. The surface is good, but the road is slow in places, and traffic can be heavy in the high season, with buses and cars. The road is closed from time to time in winter, when the avalanche danger is high, and sometimes in heavy snow, with long waits. Check before setting out in cold weather.
Beyond the top, the road descends toward Zürs, a high village with hotels and ski lifts, and then on to Lech. Lech has become famous as a smart resort, frequented by European royalty, with expensive hotels, chalets and boutiques, yet the village retains a calm, traditional character, with a wooden church and a river running through. The skiing in the area is part of the Arlberg system, one of the largest ski areas in Austria, and in summer, the same slopes are used for walking and cycling.
The landscape is rocky and wild, with grey limestone and green pastures, and snow often lies high in the gullies well into the summer. The air is crisp, and the light is bright. In June, the meadows are filled with alpine flowers, and in autumn, the larches turn gold.
Lech has a station, but prices are high, and the nearest big town is Bludenz, about twenty-six kilometres away. Klösterle, close to the western foot, has a few basic services. The best time to ride is early in the morning, before the traffic builds, and the best season is summer.