Flaming Gorge Dam is a curve of concrete wedged into a red canyon on the Green River, and on a hot day the water that spills from its base is startlingly cold and green. The dam was built in the early 1960s as part of a plan to store water in the upper Colorado River basin, and it rises roughly five hundred feet from bedrock, a smooth arch that looks small against the surrounding cliffs. It created the long reservoir that now bears the gorge's name, and it supplies hydroelectric power as well as water for farms and cities far downstream.
A visitor centre by the dam explains how it was built, and in season guided tours take you inside, down into the workings of the dam. A short walk lets you look from above at the river below, which is now a famous trout fishery, with big rainbow and brown trout that thrive in the cold, clear water released from the lake. The stretch of river below the dam draws anglers from all over the country, and drift boats float through the canyon, past cliffs the colour of rust.
The ride here is lovely. The Flaming Gorge-Uintas byway runs through pine forest and sagebrush, with long, easy bends and views across the reservoir, and drops into the canyon to the dam with a series of gentle switchbacks. The road surface is mostly good, but watch for gravel in corners, wildlife on the road at dawn and dusk, and the sudden gusts that sweep across the lake. Summer afternoons bring thunderstorms, and snow can close higher sections from late autumn. Early morning gives the best light on the red rock.
Do not expect many services. A small community, Dutch John, lies near the dam, and Manila, about twenty-seven kilometres away, has a few shops, but larger supplies are in Vernal or Rock Springs, so arrive with a decent tank. Bring water and snacks, and a jacket, because the canyon can be cool even in summer.
The area is a good example of how much the American West has been reshaped by water engineering. The dam is impressive, but the quiet moments, watching the river run clear below, are better.
Take your time at the viewing area, and look up at the cliffs from the base. They are taller than the dam, and older than anything built on them.