The Fish River Canyon in southern Namibia is the second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, about 160 kilometres long, up to 27 kilometres wide and about 550 metres deep at its deepest. The Fish River winds along the bottom in great loops, and the viewpoint at Hobas looks down on the most famous bend, called Hell's Bend. The canyon formed over hundreds of millions of years, partly by faulting and partly by river erosion, and the rock walls show the layers of history in grey, brown and red. In the dry season, the river shrinks to a series of pools, and after rain it can flood.
The surrounding country is empty. Ai-Ais, a hot spring resort at the southern end of the canyon, and Hobas, with its campsite and park office, are the only services nearby, and fuel is a real concern. The nearest town with reliable supplies is Keetmanshoop, about 160 kilometres north, and Noordoewer, at the South African border, is also a long way off. Fill the tank in a town, carry spare fuel and plenty of water, and do not count on remote pumps being open.
The ride here crosses a large, open plain of gravel and sand, with distant mountains and a wide sky. Gravel roads are usually good but corrugated in places, and loose sand and sharp stones can puncture tyres. Speeds should be modest, especially on corners, and oncoming dust from vehicles can hide hazards. The summers are extremely hot, with temperatures that can exceed forty degrees, so the best season is the cooler winter, from May to September, when days are warm and nights cold.
San people lived in the area for thousands of years, and later the Nama herded their livestock across the plains. The canyon is also the site of a famous five-day hiking trail, open only in the cooler months and requiring a medical certificate. At sunset, the walls of the canyon glow orange and purple, and the sky fills with stars after dark. It is a landscape that makes you feel small, and a ride that rewards patience.