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Fish River Canyon Route point 2

Opening times, access and services can change - check before you go.

The map puts this point on the road south of Keetmanshoop, close to Seeheim, a spot whose name appears on road signs long before anything else does. It is the junction where the road to the coast and Lüderitz leaves the main north-south highway, and it lies on the Fish River, the longest river in Namibia, which here is mostly a wide, sandy bed with pools after rain and a thin line of green trees along the banks.

The country between Keetmanshoop and the canyon is open, high and dry. Hills of dark dolerite rise in flat-topped ridges, the plains are covered by low shrub and scattered camelthorn, and the sky seems taller than it is anywhere in Europe. The colours are plain but changeable: ochre in midday light, pink-brown in the evening, and sometimes a sudden, vivid green across the flats after rain. A wide bridge over the Fish River carries the road across the riverbed, and most of the year the river is a faint ghost of itself.

Riding here is about distance and attention. The tarmac is sound, but the long, straight lines invite drifting concentration, and the wind can push a bike sideways with surprising force. Watch for livestock, because goats, donkeys and the occasional cow wander across farm roads, and for baboons and small antelope in the early morning. Trucks run these roads steadily, hauling goods between the south and the coast, so overtaking needs patience and a clear view.

German colonial history left its trace in this part of Namibia. The railway line that parallels the road was a strategic route in the early twentieth century, linking the south to the coast and the capital. The wars between German forces and the Nama people in this region were bitter, and the memory of them is part of the country's present-day conversation about its past. A quiet moment at a roadside stop is a good time to consider that the landscape you admire was contested ground.

Water, shade and a decent breakfast in Keetmanshoop will carry you comfortably through this section, and the larger town behind you holds the shops and workshops if anything goes wrong.

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