Whakapapa is where Tongariro National Park lives most of the time. In winter the village is a ski resort, and in summer it is a trailhead for walkers.
Ruapehu is the largest active volcano in New Zealand, rising to about 2,800 metres, with a crater lake that sits at its summit. It erupted violently in 1995 and 1996, scattering ash across the plateau and closing the ski fields, and there is a constant watch on the lake temperature. Some of the old lahar channels are still visible on the slopes. A chairlift runs up the mountain in both summer and winter, giving an easy way to see the upper landscape.
The riding is very good. State Highway 48 climbs gently from the plateau road through beech forest, with gentle bends and views of the mountain, and finishes at the village. The road is short but pleasant, and in clear weather the view of the peak is superb. Be careful in winter, when ice and snow can make the climb hazardous, and chains may be necessary. Wind is often strong, and cloud can come down suddenly, leaving you in cold mist.
The nearest towns are far enough away to matter. Waiouru, about twenty-four kilometres from this point, and Turangi, about thirty-eight, have fuel, and the village at the mountain does not offer reliable supplies for motorcycles, so fill up before you climb. Cafes in the village serve hot food and drinks, and they are welcome after a cold ride.
Spend an hour walking on one of the short tracks near the village, through beech forest and alpine scrub, to the Taranaki Falls, where a stream plunges over an old lava flow. The smell of the forest, damp and earthy, is memorable.
The best time is in the early morning of a clear day, when the mountain stands clear of the cloud. Late summer and early autumn have the steadiest weather.