Finlandia Hall stands on the shore of Töölö Bay in the middle of Helsinki, a long white building by Alvar Aalto that opened in 1971. Aalto was Finland's greatest architect, and the hall is typical of his late work, a sculpted block with a sloping roof and a facade of white marble that has a surprisingly soft quality in the Nordic light. The marble has had a hard time with Helsinki's climate, because the thin slabs bowed in the cold and had to be replaced in a restoration. The hall is a concert and congress centre, and it was here in 1975 that European leaders, together with the United States, Canada and the Soviet Union, signed the Helsinki Final Act, a milestone in Cold War diplomacy.
The location is a joy for anyone who likes cities by the water. The bay is a park with paths for walkers and cyclists, the Parliament building and the National Museum are nearby, and the Sibelius monument, a cluster of steel pipes that looks like a giant organ, is a short ride away in Töölö. The city centre is compact, with the grand Neoclassical square and the white Lutheran cathedral on the hill, and the harbour market with its stalls of salmon, berries and coffee.
Riding in Helsinki is straightforward, with good surfaces, courteous drivers and clear signs, but you must watch for trams, cyclists and speed cameras. Speed limits are enforced firmly, and fines in Finland are linked to income, which is a good reason to stay under them. In winter, the roads are icy and motorcycling is out of the question, so the season runs roughly from May to September. Ferries from the harbour take you to Tallinn in about two hours, and the ride to the Estonian capital begins with a boat. For a rider looking for open road, the countryside north and west of Helsinki is lovely, with lakes, forests and low granite hills.
Fuel stations are everywhere in a city of well over half a million, with Kallio and Munkkiniemi having plenty of shops and cafes. Coffee is taken seriously, and Finns drink more of it than almost anyone, so a cup and a cinnamon bun are a proper way to spend a morning. The air near the bay smells of water and pine. In June the light barely fades at night, and a late ride along the shore under a pale sky is something you remember for years.