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Finger Lakes

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Wesley Hills and Pomona are quiet suburban villages in Rockland County, New York, in the green band between the Hudson River and the Ramapo Mountains. If you are heading home from the Finger Lakes, this is a gentle landing before the city: the roads are lined with tall oaks and stone walls, and the traffic thins compared with the highways to the south. The county itself is small, wooded and full of old Dutch names like Tappan and Nyack that go back to the seventeenth century.

The countryside here is better than its commuter image suggests. To the west the land rises into Harriman State Park, a vast stretch of forest and lakes, and to the east the Palisades cliffs plunge to the Hudson. The older roads, Route 202 and Route 306 among them, wind through small hills and open to short stretches of farmland, with tight bends in the shaded sections and stone-walled lanes just off the main route. Wildlife is part of the setting. Deer cross the road at all hours, and in autumn the leaves turn red and orange across the ridges.

It is not a headline stop, and that is fine. The practical value is that you are within reach of everything you need: fuel along Route 45 and Route 202, diners and delis in the nearby centers of Spring Valley and Suffern, and an easy route onto the Thruway or the Palisades Parkway if you want a faster run south. The Palisades is itself a rider's classic, a narrow, tree-lined road from the 1950s with stone walls, no trucks and a few overlooks above the Hudson.

History sits at the edges. This part of New York saw troop movements in the American Revolution, and General Washington's army camped across the river and in the hills of Rockland in the winter of 1780 and 1781. The Dutch farmhouses scattered here are some of the oldest buildings in the state.

If you arrive in the afternoon, there is an easy plan. Take the back roads through the villages, stop for coffee and a bagel, and let the light go golden on the maples before you commit to the final highways home. The ride rewards patience.

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