The Fiagdon is a river in North Ossetia, running down from the high Caucasus through a deep, narrow valley, and the village of Verkhny Fiagdon sits at about the point where the road begins to feel properly remote. The valley is one of several side valleys that run south from the plain around Vladikavkaz, each with its own character, and this one is known for stone towers. The Ossetians, who speak an Iranian language and descend from the medieval Alans, built defensive towers and burial vaults in these gorges, some dating back hundreds of years, and they stand on the slopes above the road, grey and square, with their narrow windows and flat roofs.
Ossetian culture has a quiet, proud character, shaped by mountains, feuds, and hospitality. Three pies at a table is a local tradition, a custom that holds that every meal should include three round pies, offered to the three saints, and the meat and cheese pies of the region are justly famous. Ossetian beer, brewed from barley and hops at home, is an old ritual drink, and in the villages, guests are welcomed with food whether they are hungry or not.
The road into the Fiagdon valley is narrow, and in places it winds along the edge of a steep slope above the river. The surface varies, with patches of good tarmac, broken sections and gravel, and landslides and washouts are possible after heavy rain. The bends are tight and frequent, and the views are superb, with forested slopes, cliffs and the white peaks of the Main Range in the distance. Traffic is light, mostly local cars and lorries, but you should expect livestock on the road. Fog and thunderstorms are common in the afternoon. The best months are June to September, and early autumn is lovely, with clear light.
Services are thin. The nearest sizeable town is Alagir, about twenty-four kilometres off, and Mizur, a village on the way, has basic shops. There are small guest houses in some villages, but it is wise to arrange accommodation in advance.
Stop at a tower and look at the valley from there. It is easy to imagine why the Ossetians built here.