Werrikimbe National Park lies on the rim of the Great Escarpment in northern New South Wales, about a hundred kilometres inland from Port Macquarie, and it belongs to the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia, a World Heritage area that preserves remnants of the forests that covered the ancient supercontinent. The landscape is high and wet, a plateau of eucalypt forest, tree ferns, swamp and cliffs where rivers begin their descent to the coast. Fenwicks Scrub is a small patch of this vegetation, a pocket of rainforest in the folds of the hills.
What is special here is the plant life. Antarctic beech, a southern hemisphere relative of the beeches that grow in Patagonia and New Zealand, survives in cool, misty gullies, and its twisted, moss-covered trunks look like something from a fairy tale. Ferns, orchids and lichens thrive. Animals include lyrebirds, whose calls imitate other birds and sometimes machinery, and wallabies, possums and quolls. Visitors also find leeches after rain, so wear long socks.
Getting here takes a bit of work. The roads leading into the park are largely unsealed forest tracks, with gravel, corrugations and creek crossings, and conditions vary with the weather. After heavy rain they can turn to slippery mud or wash out entirely, so check with the national park authorities before setting off. A sturdy adventure bike and sensible tyres make a big difference. Mobile coverage is poor to nonexistent, so tell someone your plans and carry a map. The cooler months, from autumn to spring, can see frost and fog, while summer thunderstorms are fierce.
Camping is possible at designated sites, with basic facilities, and you must carry water and supplies. The reward is silence broken only by birdsong and the drip of water from the leaves. Travel light and leave nothing behind.