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Fayetteville Arkansas

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Fayetteville sits on the northern shoulder of the Boston Mountains, the highest and roughest part of the Ozarks, and it behaves like a college town that happens to be surrounded by hills. The University of Arkansas gives the place its energy, its Dickson Street bars and its autumn Saturdays, when the whole town seems to dress in cardinal red for the Razorbacks. With more than eighty thousand people it has every kind of fuel, food and bike shop you could want, so a ride that starts and ends here never has to worry about logistics.

The point of leaving is the land to the south. Once you clear the last strip malls, the roads begin to rise and fall over ridges that never get very high but rarely stay flat. Most of the interesting roads are two-lane state highways wrapped around hollows, with tight little bends, blind crests and the odd cattle guard. The famous one is the Pig Trail, Highway 23, which runs south through the Ozark National Forest toward Ozark and the Arkansas River valley. It is narrow in places, shaded by oak and hickory, and a long way from anywhere you could call fast.

Timing matters. October is the headline, when the hardwoods turn and the weekend traffic of motorcycles on that road is thick enough that locals plan around it. Spring brings dogwood and redbud along the verges, and summer is hot, humid and loud with cicadas. Gravel does wash across the apex after heavy rain, and deer are an everyday hazard at dusk, so the best light is mid-morning to mid-afternoon.

The country itself has a quiet story. Cherokee people were driven through this corner of the Ozarks on their way west, and the Civil War's Battle of Prairie Grove, a short ride southwest, still marks the ground with a state park. Closer to town, Mount Sequoyah gives you a view over the valley and the university from the north side, while the old railroad corridor has become a paved trail that bypasses the traffic entirely.

Before you head out, top up here rather than counting on the small towns beyond Winslow, where stations are fewer and close early. A proper breakfast on the square, a look at the weather radar, and you are ready for the hills.

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