Fataga is a tiny village in a wide, green ravine, with palm trees at the bottom and bare hills above, and it feels like a surprise because it lies only a short ride from the tourist beaches of Maspalomas. The Fataga valley runs from the high interior of the island down toward the south coast, and the village sits partway along it, with a church, a few whitewashed houses and a cluster of restaurants that cater to the coaches that stop here. Beyond the village, the road climbs toward San Bartolomé de Tirajana through a landscape of terraces, almond trees and scattered farms.
The valley is one of the best-known routes on the island, and it has the contrast that visitors love: a dry, rocky landscape, with a thick growth of palms and prickly pear in the gorge. Almond blossom in January and February gives the slopes a soft pink glow. Not far from Fataga, an open-air museum called Mundo Aborigen presents a reconstruction of the pre-Hispanic life of the island, with replicas of caves and houses, and a small cafe. The village itself has a reputation for being slightly tourist-oriented, but it also has a quiet side if you walk up the lanes away from the main road.
The road from Maspalomas through the Fataga valley is a favourite with riders. It climbs in a series of long, easy bends, alongside a dry riverbed, with the sea behind you, and it makes a good approach to the interior. The surface is excellent and the corners are well-engineered, so it is easy to find a rhythm. Traffic includes tour buses and rental cars, which can slow things down, so choose a weekday morning if possible. The road continues to San Bartolomé, where the real mountain riding begins.
Santa Lucía and San Bartolomé, a few kilometres away, have stations and shops, and the coast has everything. The restaurants in the village serve grilled meat, goat stew and the island's wrinkled potatoes with mojo sauce, a staple that is simple and unforgettable. The cafes offer coffee and almond cakes.
Come early to avoid the buses and see the valley in clear morning light.