Faro is the capital of the Algarve and the southern end of Portugal's long road, though the people who land here usually head straight for the beaches. The town sits on a lagoon, the Ria Formosa, a protected area of sandbanks, salt marshes and channels that shelters flamingos, spoonbills and a very rich shoreline. Boats run out to the barrier islands, where long empty beaches face the open Atlantic. The old town, inside a medieval wall, has narrow cobbled streets, a cathedral built partly on the site of a mosque, and a pleasant marina.
The Algarve was ruled by the Moors for several centuries, and its name comes from the Arabic al-Gharb, the west. The influence still shows in the white houses, the chimneys with lacy decoration and some of the food, including the almond sweets and fig cakes. Fresh seafood is the local focus, with grilled sea bream, clams cooked with pork in a copper pan, the cataplana, and sardines in summer. A table near the harbour in the evening, with the sun low over the water, is the proper way to end a long ride.
Faro is the finish of the Estrada Nacional 2 and the start of the coastal route east and west. The riding on the Algarve coast is more relaxed than in the northern interior, with flat roads, roundabouts and tourist traffic in summer. For better riding, turn inland to the hills of the Serra do Caldeirão and Monchique, where cork oak and eucalyptus cover the slopes and the roads wind through small villages. Spring has wildflowers and almond blossom, and autumn is warm and quiet. In July and August, the coast is crowded and hot.
Everything is available here: fuel, repairs, food, hotels and an airport that makes the place a convenient start or end for a trip. Olhão, to the east, is a lively fishing port with a covered market, and Estói has a small palace with a lovely garden. Speed cameras exist on the main roads, and Portuguese tolls on some motorways are electronic, so ask about the system if you are renting.
Take your time, have a swim, and treat the end of the road with some ceremony. After seven hundred kilometres, a cold drink in the sun is deserved.