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Fajana de Pera Superior

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Fajana is an old word for a strip of cultivated ground on a slope, a terrace in effect, and the Fajana de Pera Superior is presumably the upper strip of a farm called Pera. The shelter lies about five kilometres from Alquézar in the foothills of the Sierra de Guara, among old field boundaries that have been taken back by oak and box. It belongs to the rock art of the Vero, listed by UNESCO in 1998 as part of the Mediterranean arc, and carries the usual faint red marks of hunters and animals.

It tells you something that the shelters are named after terraces and farms, not mountains or heroes. The people who named them were farmers who lived in the valley until the middle of the twentieth century, working fields that now look inaccessible. Every bit of flat land was used, and walls of dry stone held the soil on slopes that seem too steep for a goat. The effort that went into those terraces rivalled that of the painters, and in many ways it was an art form.

Riding the Vero valley gives you a close view of what is left. Beyond Alquézar the road winds through country with abandoned farms, stone barns with caved-in roofs and olive trees gone wild. The road itself is good, with bends that tighten as the valley narrows and some sections of rough surface. Traffic is light during the week and heavier on weekends. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, and you should be prepared to stop under the trees or in a village while a downpour passes.

Fuel is down on the plain. Barbastro, twenty-two kilometres away, is the place to fill the tank and buy supplies, and has a covered market worth visiting if you are there in the morning. Alquézar offers coffee, simple food and a handful of rooms. A little care will be needed on the walk to the shelter, because the paths are rough and the slopes loose.

Read it in a ride

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