Barbastro is the gateway to this country, and most riders pass through it without a second look, which is a mistake. The town, with some seventeen thousand people, sits on the Vero where it leaves the hills, at the edge of the Somontano wine region, and it has a handsome old centre with arcaded streets, a Gothic cathedral begun in the sixteenth century and a long tradition of markets and trade. It is the practical centre of the district, with the fuel, supermarkets, banks and restaurants that the small villages of the valley lack.
Fajana de Pera II is a painted shelter about five kilometres from Alquézar, in the cliffs that line the upper Vero. If you want to see the art, the best plan is to ask in Barbastro or at the park's information points about guided visits, which can save you a lot of wandering.
From Barbastro the road to Alquézar follows the river up into the hills, a distance of some twenty kilometres. It starts as an easy road through farmland, with almond and olive terraces on either side, then closes in as the cliffs rise, with bends that tighten gradually. The surface is generally good, and the traffic is moderate, with a few tourist vehicles on summer weekends. Past the village the lanes narrow, with gravel and rough patches, so a light bike and a patient hand suit them.
Before you leave Barbastro, fill the tank, buy water and food, and consider visiting a winery. Several cellars around the town welcome visitors, and a tasting of Somontano red or the fresh whites is a good way to understand the region. The local specialities are lamb, borage, cured ham and the almond-based sweets of Aragon.
Spring and early autumn are the best seasons. The market days are lively, and the old centre is a pleasure for a stroll before the day's riding begins.