Èze is a village built like an eagle's nest, perched on a sharp rock about four hundred and twenty metres above the Mediterranean, with the sea spread out below on three sides. A tangle of stone lanes, stepped passages and vaulted alleys climbs the rock to the summit, where the ruins of a medieval castle have been turned into an exotic garden full of cacti and succulents, with views that stretch along the coast from Cap Ferrat to the mountains of Italy on a clear day.
The village dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was fortified against pirates and rivals, and its streets were carefully designed to be defended and shaded. Today the old houses are filled with art galleries, craft shops and small restaurants, and a perfume factory offers free tours. A famous hotel occupies a clifftop castle, and the village has long been a magnet for artists and the wealthy, so prices are what you would expect.
Below the village, a steep footpath known as the Nietzsche Path winds down to the coast at Èze-sur-Mer. The German philosopher is said to have composed part of Thus Spoke Zarathustra while walking it in the 1880s, and the path takes around forty minutes to descend, with views through pines and aloes. The climb back is harder than it looks, so be sure you have the time and energy.
For the rider, Èze sits on the Moyenne Corniche, one of the three coast roads between Nice and Monaco, and the approach is a pleasure: wide curves above the sea, dramatic views of the coast and tunnels cut through the rock. The surface is generally excellent, but traffic is heavy in the summer months and tour coaches fill the village car parks by late morning. Early mornings and early evenings are the best times to visit, when the crowds thin and the light turns golden.
The old village is entirely pedestrian and the lanes are cobbled and steep, so wear sensible boots. There is parking at the entrance, but it fills quickly and is not cheap. For fuel, La Trinité, a few kilometres away, and the larger town of Beausoleil have stations, and there are none in the village itself.