Gypsum dissolves in water far faster than limestone, and in the upper valley of the Secchia, in the Reggio Emilia Apennines, that simple fact has produced a strange landscape of white cliffs, sinkholes, caves and underground rivers. The Evaporitic Karst and Caves of the Northern Apennines were added to the World Heritage list in 2023, and this area near Castelnovo ne' Monti and Villa Minozzo holds some of the most striking outcrops, ancient Triassic gypsum that glitters in the sun and forms steep walls above the river. Near the Secchia, the springs of Poiano gush out of the rock with a strong flow of slightly salty water, fed by the karst system.
The great landmark of the area is the Pietra di Bismantova, a sheer-sided sandstone block rising above Castelnovo ne' Monti like a stranded ship. It is visible from miles around, and Dante mentioned it in the Divine Comedy, comparing the steep climb of Purgatory to the effort of reaching its summit. Today it is a popular spot for climbers and walkers, and there is a small hermitage at its foot.
The riding in these mountains is excellent. The main road through Castelnovo ne' Monti, the SS63, climbs from the Po plain towards the Passo del Cerreto and on into Tuscany, with long, flowing bends, good surfaces and fine views over the Apennines. The smaller roads that branch off towards Villa Minozzo and the Secchia valley are narrower and twistier, with steep gradients, tight hairpins and occasional rough patches. Traffic is light during the week, but busier on summer weekends with riders and day trippers from the cities.
Castelnovo ne' Monti, a town of about ten thousand people, is the main centre of the area, with fuel, shops and restaurants. This is Parmigiano Reggiano country, and the cheese from the mountain dairies is especially prized. Look also for tortelli filled with herbs, potatoes or pumpkin, and for the local cured meats. Mountain weather can change quickly, and winter brings snow to the higher roads, so check conditions before setting out. In autumn, the beech and chestnut woods turn spectacular shades of gold and red.