Eupen is the capital of the German-speaking community in the east of Belgium, a small town of about eighteen thousand in the valley of the Vesdre, and a place where borders have moved more than once. For centuries it belonged to the Duchy of Limburg and then to Prussia, and only after the First World War, under the Treaty of Versailles, was it transferred to Belgium. People here speak German, and shop signs, church services and the local radio all use it, though French and Dutch are also heard. It is also the home of a well-known chocolate factory.
The pleasures of Eupen lie in what surrounds it. To the south, the Hautes Fagnes, or High Fens, rise to a wide plateau of peat bog, heather and stunted spruce. The highest point in Belgium, the Signal de Botrange, stands at six hundred and ninety-four metres, hardly an alp, but the landscape feels remote, with boardwalks over the moor, cotton grass in spring and mist most of the year. Parts of the fens are closed to motor traffic to protect the fragile habitat, and in dry spells there is a serious risk of peat fires, so follow the signs. To the east, the border town of Monschau, just across the line in Germany, is a gem of half-timbered houses.
Riding the return roads from the Eifel and the High Fens into Eupen is a joy at the end of a day. The road drops through forest and pasture, with wide curves, long views and a smooth surface, and the weather can change in minutes, from clear to fog to rain, so carry a waterproof. In autumn the beech woods are golden, and in winter frost and snow can lie on the heights when the valley is clear.
Fuel is easy in Eupen, with several stations and supermarkets, and the old town has cafes and bakeries serving waffles and heavy cakes. It is a convenient place to top up before the border.