The cliff edge at Chenek is where the Simien Mountains stop being a landscape and become a drop.
This is the best place in the range to see the gelada. The grassy ledges near the camp are a favourite feeding ground, and large troops move through in the morning and evening, sitting on their haunches and plucking grass blades with fingers that look almost human. Males carry thick manes, and the bare red patch on the chest of both sexes is the reason for the common name 'bleeding-heart baboon'. Walia ibex, rare and wary, are sometimes spotted on the cliff ledges, and lammergeier vultures ride the updraughts along the edge, enormous and silent.
The air at this altitude is thin, and the weather is changeable. Mornings are cold and bright, with frost on the grass in the dry season, and afternoon cloud can roll in, bringing mist and rain. The temperature drops sharply after sunset, so warm gear is essential. Riders who are not acclimatised may feel breathless or tired, and the rule is to go slowly, drink water and give your body time.
The road to this point is rough. A dirt track climbs and winds through the plateau, crossing open grassland and passing a handful of campsites. Rain makes it greasy, and rocks and ruts can unsettle a loaded bike, so this is a place for experienced off-road riders with a sensible pace and a companion. The park requires scouts and entry fees, and the rules for vehicles are worth checking at Debark before you commit to the climb.
Supplies and fuel must be sorted out in Debark or Gondar, since the park itself has only the basics. In the late afternoon, when the sun drops toward the western ridges and the cliffs turn amber, it is worth finding a rock to sit on and watching the shadows lengthen across the valley.