Sankaber is where the road stops being a road for most people and becomes a way of seeing the Simien Mountains.
The first thing you notice is the quality of the light, which is thin and clear and makes distances deceptive. The grassland rolls out in wide, pale gold waves, interrupted by clumps of giant lobelia, the tall, spiky plants that grow only on high African mountains, standing like candelabras. In the distance, jagged ridges and flat-topped pinnacles rise out of the haze, and the escarpment falls steeply into valleys so deep that clouds drift beneath your feet. It is a landscape that feels both ancient and slightly unreal.
The people of the area are farmers and herders, and they have lived with the mountains for centuries. Their villages of round huts with thatched roofs sit among terraced fields of barley and wheat, and children and shepherds can appear on the track as you go. Gelada baboons graze on the grass in troops, sometimes close enough to hear them chattering. They are not shy but they are wild, so keep a respectful distance.
For riders, the dirt road through the park is a serious undertaking. It is mostly graded earth and gravel, but ruts, loose stones and washouts are common, especially after rain, and the altitude can sap strength and concentration. A guide or scout is required in the park, and you should check with the park office in Debark about entry rules for motorcycles and conditions before setting out. The dry season, from roughly October to March, is the best time; the wet months can make the track slippery and the views clouded.
There are no towns up here, only small settlements and a few park facilities, so Debark is the supply point. Bring warm clothes, water and a good sense of humour about the weather: it can swing from sun to hail in half an hour.