Estes Park sits in a high mountain valley at about 2,300 metres, at the gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, and it has been a holiday town for well over a century. The main street runs beside the Big Thompson River, lined with shops, ice cream parlours and restaurants, and the mountains rise on every side, with the great bulk of Longs Peak to the south. In autumn, herds of elk wander through the town during the rut, grazing on lawns and golf courses, and the males bugle in the evenings, a sound you do not forget.
The landmark above the town is the Stanley Hotel, a white colonial-style building opened in 1909 by F. O. Stanley, an inventor who made his fortune with the Stanley Steamer motor car. The hotel inspired Stephen King's novel The Shining after King stayed there in 1974, and it embraces its reputation with ghost tours. You can wander the grounds and the lobby even if you do not stay, and the view of the mountains from the porch is lovely.
The town also carries a darker memory. In July 1976, a flash flood tore through the Big Thompson Canyon, which carries the road from the plains to Estes Park, killing well over a hundred people. The canyon road is still one of the main ways in, a winding route beside the river through steep walls, and a memorial stands along it. Take it gently, watch for rockfall and keep an eye on the sky, because storms still gather above the canyon.
As a food stop, Estes Park gives plenty of choice. Many places serve burgers, steaks and local trout, along with breakfasts of pancakes and green chile, and coffee shops and bakeries are scattered along the main street. In summer the town is crowded, with tourists filling the pavements and traffic crawling, so patience helps. Parking for motorcycles is usually available in side streets and public lots.
Fuel is plentiful, and the town has about six thousand people, so repairs and supplies are easy. Lyons and Boulder lie to the east and are the other places to fill up on the way up from Denver. Bring layers, because even in summer evenings are cool at this altitude.
Plan to arrive early or late to avoid the worst of the traffic, and keep your eyes open for elk. They are large and unpredictable, and they have the right of way.