The Jesuits ran their farms like small empires. In the seventeenth century the Society of Jesus built a chain of estancias around the city of Cordoba, in the centre of Argentina, which supported the university and the college in town with grain, cattle, wine and mules, and these, together with the Jesuit Block in Cordoba itself, were inscribed on the World Heritage list in 2000. The Estancia of Caroya, founded in 1616, was the first of them, and its low, thick-walled buildings, with their long arcaded gallery, courtyard and a chapel, look out over a plain bordered by the hills of the Sierras Chicas.
In 1767, the Spanish crown expelled the Jesuits from its empire, and the estancias were sold or abandoned. Caroya went through several hands, and in the late nineteenth century a new chapter began when the Argentine government settled Italian immigrants on the land, mostly families from Friuli in the north-east of Italy. Their descendants gave the district a lasting Italian character. Colonia Caroya, next to the estancia, is still known for its salami, sausages, wine and mushrooms, and in the town streets you hear Friulian accents and see vines trained over every yard.
The estancia houses a museum, with displays about the Jesuits, the workshops and the colonists, and its walls hold fragments of old paintings. A short ride away, the Estancia of Santa Catalina, on the ride's list, is the largest and most impressive of the group, with a grand church and an extensive set of buildings.
The ride from Cordoba is easy, along Route 9, a fast, smooth road heading north through flat farmland with sunflowers, maize and soy, and the hills appear to the west. Jesus Maria, with nearly twenty-seven thousand people, is a lively small city with fuel, restaurants and a famous folk festival every January, which draws crowds of music fans. The roads into the Sierras Chicas climb into hills with oaks, rock outcrops and small rivers, and are very enjoyable for a Sunday ride. Summers are hot, with heavy storms, and winters are dry and mild, so autumn and spring are the most comfortable. Try a picada, a platter of cured meats and cheese, with a glass of local red wine.