Castell de Castells sits in a valley with running water in it, which in dry Alicante counts for a good deal. Springs, small pools and irrigated terraces give this corner of the Serrella a green freshness that comes as a surprise in such country. The Esbardal de Miquel el Serril is a rocky outcrop and shelter a kilometre and a half from the village, in a landscape of cliffs, pine and almond, and it is one of the closest shelters to Castell de Castells, with Benimantell four kilometres away.
The name Miquel el Serril looks like a person's nickname, and it suggests a farmer who once worked the land below. It is an example of how local people record their history in place names, and it is worth asking in the village whether anyone remembers who he was. People in the valley are generally friendly and glad to talk about their home.
The road in is one of the best in the province. From Callosa d'en Sarrià, it climbs through loquat and citrus, then through almond and olive terraces, past the village of Guadalest with its castle on a rock, and on to Benimantell and Castell de Castells. The bends are tight, the views are wide, and the traffic is mostly local. Guadalest is crowded in summer, so go early. In winter, frost can linger on the shady bends.
Fuel is at La Nucia, twelve kilometres away, or in Callosa d'en Sarrià, on the way up. Benidorm, with its towers, is not far, but a world away. Bolulla, with fewer than four hundred people, has a bar, and so does Castell de Castells. The paintings in the shelter are small, so go with patience, and treat the site with care. Take water for the walk, because the slopes above the village have little shade, and watch your footing on the loose limestone, which rolls underfoot after a dry spell and turns greasy after rain. A short visit in the early morning, followed by a long breakfast in the village, is a fine way to spend the first half of a day.