Erzin sits in the far south of Tuva, a small town of around three thousand people in a basin that opens towards the Uvs Nuur, the great salt lake that straddles the Mongolian border. The Uvs Nuur basin is a protected area of international importance, a sweep of dry steppe, salt flats, sand dunes and mountain edges that shelters rare birds and animals. Erzin itself is a modest administrative town with a few shops and a handful of low buildings, but it is the gateway to some of the emptiest scenery in southern Siberia.
The road here is a long ride south from Kyzyl across country that gets drier and wider with each hour. The surface is variable, with good stretches of asphalt alternating with broken sections, and the bends are few. Distances are large and the wind can be fierce, especially in spring and autumn, when it blows across the open plain and tests your grip. Summer afternoons can hit the high thirties, and the heat shimmers off the steppe, so carry far more water than you think you need. Nights are cold even in July.
Fuel is available in Erzin, but do not assume the pump will always have supplies, and keep a margin for the way back. The shops stock basics, and there are a couple of places to eat where the menu is short and the portions generous: meat dumplings, soup, flat bread and strong tea. Beyond the town, the track into the steppe is a matter for experienced riders with a reliable bike, as services all but disappear and mobile signal comes and goes.
What makes the area special is the sense of space. Yurts dot the plain, herds of sheep, goats and horses move slowly across the grass, and in the evening the light turns gold and orange over the hills. The Tuvan herders who live here have kept many of their traditions, and they are generally friendly to visitors who behave respectfully and ask before taking photographs. If you are lucky you may see an eagle riding the thermals above the steppe, and at night the stars are overwhelming. Here the border is close, so keep your documents handy and avoid wandering off toward the frontier without checking local rules.