You come into Ericeira from the south on the N247, and the last few kilometres are the best. The road threads along the top of low cliffs, with the Atlantic on your left and farms and small villages on your right, and the surface is generally smooth and the curves long. Earlier in the day the same road has taken you past Azenhas do Mar, a white village that clings to a cliff above a natural sea pool, and through the vineyards of Colares, where vines grow in deep sand and have been spared the diseases that wiped out most of Europe's grapes in the nineteenth century. Both make good stops, but Ericeira is the proper reward.
The town sits on a bluff above the sea, with a tight knot of narrow, cobbled lanes, whitewashed houses with blue and yellow trim, small squares, and a harbour at the bottom of a slope where the fishing boats are still hauled up on a ramp. It is a delightful place to wander on foot, although a motorbike is awkward on the steep cobbles, so park and walk. The surf draws a young crowd, and in the evening the cafes fill up with sunburnt people eating fish and drinking cold beer.
Ribeira d'Ilhas, a point break just to the south, is one of the best-known surf spots in Portugal, and a short ride away. Mafra, with its vast baroque palace, is a little inland and easy to reach. The road runs on north toward Peniche and the Berlengas, a more rugged coast, with high cliffs and long, empty beaches, and a different mood altogether.
Ericeira has about seven thousand people, so fuel, supermarkets and every other service are available, and in high summer the town is crowded and parking is a struggle. Come early or in the evening. The ocean breeze keeps the temperature pleasant, though fog can appear without warning, and the wind can be strong on the exposed cliffs. The best months are May, June and September, when the sea is warm enough to swim and the light is soft and golden. Eat grilled fish, drink a glass of local white wine, and watch the sun set into the Atlantic.