Ephesus once had a population of a quarter of a million, a harbour that brought in ships from across the Mediterranean, and a temple counted among the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Today it has the best-preserved street plan of any Roman city in the east, and a crowd of visitors who walk down its marble roads each morning. The most photographed building is the Library of Celsus, whose two-storey facade, with its columns and statues of the virtues, was built in the early second century as a tomb and a library for a Roman governor, and rebuilt from the fallen stones in the twentieth century. The Great Theatre, carved into the slope of Mount Pion, held about twenty-five thousand people and is where, according to the Acts of the Apostles, the silversmiths of Ephesus rioted against Paul for threatening the trade in souvenir shrines of Artemis.
Walk down the Marble Street and the Curetes Street, with their ruts from carts, mosaic floors, public toilets with seats in a row and the terrace houses of the rich, with their painted walls and heated floors, and the city comes alive. Ephesus was also an early centre of Christianity, and a council held here in 431 declared Mary to be the Mother of God. The harbour has silted up, and the sea is now several kilometres away, so the city that lived by the water died when the water left.
Getting there is simple, since Selcuk lies three kilometres away, and the road is flat. The challenge is the crowds, with coaches arriving from the coastal resorts and cruise ships at Kusadasi, so be at the gate when it opens, and expect the heat to build rapidly. In summer, the stones become very hot, and there is little shade. Spring and autumn are better, with softer light, and winter is quiet, with the chance of rain. The ride goes on to Samos in Greece, which you reach by ferry from Kusadasi, a short crossing that takes the bike and gives views of the coast.
Selcuk has plenty of fuel stations, mechanics, cafes and guesthouses. The village of Sirince, in the hills above, is known for fruit wines, olive oil and stone houses, a pleasant place for lunch. Bring water, sun protection and comfortable shoes with a good grip, since the marble is slippery. A local guide can add a lot to the visit, and a small fee is usual.