Ensenada is a small village at the eastern end of Lago Llanquihue, and its charm is mostly its position. The lake is on one side, and the two volcanoes, Osorno and Calbuco, stand on the other, with the Cordillera behind. It is a place where the road runs along the water, where the beach is made of dark volcanic sand, and where a few simple restaurants and guesthouses take advantage of a very good view. There are only about a thousand people here, and the pace is gentle.
The geology is the story. This region sits above a subduction zone, where the Nazca plate slides beneath South America, which feeds a line of volcanoes along the Andes. Osorno, with its almost perfect cone, last erupted in the nineteenth century, while Calbuco is more active and erupted forcefully in 2015, covering the surrounding area with ash. Near Ensenada you can see old lava flows and fields of dark scoria, and the soil is rich and fertile, which explains why this region was so attractive to farmers.
The riding is among the best in the Lake District. The road from Puerto Varas runs along the lakeshore with views of Osorno across the water, and then bends inland through farmland and woods, with the volcano growing larger as you approach. The road is paved, with gentle curves and a few more lively bends where it climbs, and there is a decent amount of space on the shoulder. On summer weekends traffic builds, especially with tourists heading to the falls and the ski area on Osorno, so choose a weekday if you can.
Ensenada has a few small shops, but supplies are limited, so Puerto Varas, around forty kilometres away, is the safer choice for a full tank and a proper meal. The region has a strong tradition of smoked salmon and trout, fresh from the lakes, along with the German-influenced cakes found throughout the area. Look for a lakeside restaurant and order whatever is on the grill.
The weather has a mind of its own: the volcanoes may be hidden by cloud one minute and blazing white the next. Early morning light is often the best, before the mist rises and the tour groups arrive.