Encumeada is the pass that cuts Madeira in two. At about a thousand metres, it sits on the island's spine between São Vicente on the north coast and Serra de Água on the south, and from the viewpoint at the top you can look down both valleys at once. On a clear day you see the sea on each side, the north in a haze of cloud and the south in sun, with steep green ridges folding away like crumpled cloth. It is one of the few spots on the island where you can feel its shape in a single glance.
The island's wild interior is home to the laurisilva, an ancient laurel forest that once covered much of southern Europe and survives here in a damp, mossy form. Its wet, twisted trees were recognised by UNESCO in 1999, and walkers use the levadas, narrow irrigation channels cut into the mountainsides, to reach waterfalls and viewpoints. Some routes begin near the pass, and the ground drips even on days of sun. The air smells of earth, leaf and rain.
For riders, the road to Encumeada is a mix of tunnels, tight bends and long climbs. From São Vicente it rises along a valley with steep drops, passing waterfalls and terraced fields, and the surface is generally good but can be wet and slippery. Clouds often settle on the pass, reducing visibility, and the temperature falls noticeably compared with the coast. The road demands attention, with sharp corners, short tunnels and the occasional rockfall after heavy rain. On the south side it descends in a series of hairpins to the Ribeira Brava valley, with the views opening toward the sea.
Fuel is not available at the pass, so fill up in São Vicente, about five kilometres away, or in Ribeira Brava on the south coast. A small café and a shop at the viewpoint sell drinks and snacks, though the hours vary. São Vicente is also known for its volcanic caves and a small old town with a chapel set into the rock, and it has several restaurants serving fresh fish, espetada, beef skewers grilled over laurel wood, and bolo do caco, a round bread served with garlic butter.
The weather can change in minutes, from sun to mist to rain, so bring a rain layer and take it slowly. The best light is in the morning, before clouds build on the ridges, and the view from the top is worth the effort.